Jeanne's Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela: Pamplona to Uterga

Pamplona to Uterga
Wednesday, March 22nd, 2023
17.2 km

What a day! I am so tired I can barely write. I'm also shivering due to the albergue private room I am in has no hot water. I just took an ice-cold shower. The last time I had a shower this cold was 40 years ago and I was single. I was living in Spain and my Butano ran out. Butano was a gas that had to be refilled, much like propane for barbeque grills. I hadn't even known it was a thing, until there was no hot water. Needless to say, it only happened once. Anyway, after contacting the hospitalero, he insisted there was hot water. Turns out you must let the water run over 5 minutes for the water to start heating up, I timed it!

I awoke at 0600 in Pamplona and was out of my hotel by 0700. I loved staying there and highly recommend it! I walked to the Plaza Mayor and took some pictures of the sunrise. I wound my way around the charming streets to get back to the Camino. Close to the Town Hall, was a cute little cafe that was open. Time for breakfast or desayuno as they say in Spain. I had a cafe con leche and a delicious patata tortilla (potato omelet). There was a slice of ham and a slice of mild cheese in the middle. This breakfast was the best breakfast I have had in awhile. A wonderful way to start the Camino. I then took my time as I headed out of the city of Pamplona.

As I walked out of the city, I noticed the fields were a stunning green (verde) color. Last year the colza (rapeseed) fields were bright yellow (amarillo). It is a bit early to have in the Spring for colza to bloom. There are flowering fruit trees in bloom to make this hike/walk very pretty.

The 13th century Romanesque church in Zariquiegui wasn't open. This is also a location from the Martin Sheen/Emilio Estevez movie, The Way. I was able to visit the church last year and get a stamp in my credencial (pilgrim passport). There is a small cafe/tienda across the street from the church. I stopped there for a cafe con leche.

I met a few pilgrims today on my way up to Alto de Perdon, the Hill of Forgiveness. Liz from Scotland was the first pilgrim I visited with. She was around my age and had walked three different Caminos, but never the Camino France, until now. I also met an older man named Claude, from Belgium. He was walking to Puenta la Reina today. That is my destination for tomorrow so good on him for walking so far. Harry (not Prince Harry) from England was a young bicyclist that started as a walker from St. Jean Pied-de-Port. He and his friend rented bicycles in Pamplona because he was on a time crunch for getting back to his job. Unfortunately, they were having issues with their bikes. One of the bikes needed repair, so they were making phone calls when I said goodbye.

The climb to the Hill of Forgiveness or Alto de Perdon was grueling. Last year I breezed through it. I am so out of shape compared to my fitness one year ago when I was here. I had just completed 217 miles on the Appalachian Trail and thought the Camino was a breeze in comparison. Oh how I wished that I had the same fitness as last year. The metal pilgrim statues at the top were amazing. These statues represent pilgrims from the Middle Ages to modern times. There is an inscription in Spanish that translates to Where the Path of the Wind crosses with that of the Stars. I stopped and took pictures and had a small break. There was a group of special needs adults that were taking pictures too. Their caregivers were so patient and kind with them. It warmed my heart to see these challenged adults going on neat adventures. They had a bus waiting for them so they didn't have to do the grueling hike over the rocks.

Another factor in my hike/walk today being so difficult was my boots were worn out and I was unable to find another pair that fit the same. I decided to bring and wear my boots that had a thousand miles on them. They did not do much to shield my feet from the large rocks on the way down. I felt every single large boulder. The way up this small mountain may be called the Hill of Forgiveness, but the steep path on the way down, through a two- or three-mile rock scree, should be called the Path of Retribution.

It truly was a tortuous hike into Uterga. I was close to tears and wondering why I thought finishing the Camino would be fun. I didn't talk much to anyone on the way down, other than acknowledging Buen Camino. Buen Camino meaning Good Way is the universal greeting we all (pilgrims) say to one another. My head was down as I picked my way over the large, steep rock path. I did start to slip a few times, but my trusty hiking poles saved me. My hiking boots do not have much traction left.

Just outside of my destination of Uterga, I was passed by a large group of young adults. They were either in high school or college. Entering Uterga there was a soccer field/park and I again met with the group of high school/college kids. This time more than half of them were kicking a soccer ball and running around! Oh how I wish to have that energy. I was doing good to be in an upright position as I walked/shuffled slowly to my albergue, lol!

My hostel/albergue was not open when I arrived. I went across the street and ordered lunch. My lunch consisted of a salad ensalada and a cup of vegetable soup. As soon as I sat down, I started crying. I am assuming it was due to exhaustion and not the food. lol. The lunch I ate tasted fine.